Sunday 1 July 2012

The reverse pleat on suitings

I have ordered a Prince of Wales cloth suiting (glen plaid or Glen Urquhart), a double breasted suit from my local tailor, and during the commissioning and bespeaking I stressed that the trousers be with reverse pleats and other bespoke options. But when picking up the suit, the trousers were with forward pleats. Hmmm.....anyway the suit was elegantly cut and well fitting, minus the pleat detail. My mistake.
The Glen Urquhart, Glen plaid or Prince Of Wales cloth
Two reverse pleats on trousers, note the trouser sits or hangs on Mr. Sean Connery's natural waist line and not hanging from the hips as seen these days.
A three piece suiting with reverse pleated trousers as worn by Sean Connery below. Note that the waistcoat's last button (open) ends where the trousers start, no shirting visible, no belts used. The trousers have side adjusters  therefore no need for a belt. Elegantly done Mr. Bond, very classic.
Double breasted suiting in Glen Urquhart cloth, from Apparel Art Images 1936
Pictures sourced from Conduit Cut and Ask Andy about Clothes

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